Tasting Methodology

I taste in controlled settings, using specifically chosen stemware for each type of wine. My stemware choices are based on decades of experimentation with literally dozens of different types of wine glasses. When new designs come out, I am happy to try them to see if they can improve the performance of the glass I currently favor. 

When tasting I give each wine as much time and attention as it needs to show its best. Young wines often show best after being open for many hours. Revisiting them on the second (and sometimes third) day offers further insights, reveals hidden flaws, and suggests future ageability. I never taste quickly or rush through too many wines to meet some deadline. I do not do massive tastings or judge in wine competitions. I taste in small peer groups and give every wine more than a few good long looks before reaching a final assessment.

DESIRED CHARACTERISTICS

I specifically value wines that best demonstrate typicity, specificity, clarity, elegance, polish, depth and balance. If the wine is from a single variety it should reflect the generally-accepted standards for that variety; if it varies off that track it had better be really good! If it is from a specific focused sub-AVA (McMinnville rather than Willamette Valley; the Rocks District rather than Walla Walla Valley), it should express the unique character of that sub-AVA’s terroir. If a wine is designated by vineyard, clone or block it should feel complete and not just like a component with parts missing. If it is labeled old vine or winemaker’s select or reserve, it should justify that verbiage even though such terms are unregulated.

BLIND TASTING

Blind tasting is a tried-and-true wine magazine formula that is supposed to ensure objectivity among wine critics. I don’t quibble with those who believe that to be true, but I completely disagree. Blind tasting eliminates context. In no other field of criticism is a judgment made without prior knowledge about the artist and their prior work or experience. Imagine if book reviewers were given untitled blank copies with no information about the author. Would that make for better book reviews? How does a restaurant get reviewed without the critic knowing the identity of the restaurant? Even at publications that trumpet their “objective blind tastings” the hard truth is that scores are added and/or amended after the bottles are revealed.

More importantly, when I am tasting young wines along with the winemaker (either at the winery or at my home) first impressions often focus entirely on the positive. For that reason I will always re-taste all wines apart from the winemaker in order to re-evaluate and expand upon those first impressions. To be clear – I do not do blind tastings except for fun. It is not in my view the best way to evaluate young wines, and the claims of objectivity are a smokescreen. If all the reviewers who claim to taste blind really did so, do you honestly think their scores would line up so consistently?

SCORING WINES

And speaking of scores… my initial decision not to publish scores on this website was part of the early design process. I wanted to see if providing extensive reviews without scores would make this website an open forum for a broad range of topics of importance to the wine industry. I have changed that approach after extensive feedback from winemakers. Scores are now part of every published review on this website and on Substack.

FEATURED WINES

The three featured selections each week are drawn from current tastings. They are shown with a label, a detailed tasting note and a link to the winery website for purchase information. As I specifically seek out limited releases from under-the-radar, family-owned wineries, I want my recommendations to go live online before the wines have sold out. The Wine of the Week is a subjective choice that is uniquely desirable in some way regardless of its cost. The Value Wine stands above its pricepoint peers and optimally (though not always) retails for less than $25. The Wine for the Cellar is a young wine structured for aging and one that I have found improves over several days. I welcome library samples for the purposes of showing that proper cellaring can improve and develop wines to their full potential.