On September 21st, 1998, I was invited to have lunch with Robert and Margrit Mondavi during their brief visit to Seattle. The occasion was the publication of Robert Mondavi’s book – “Harvests of Joy” The subtitle: My Passion For Excellence – How the Good Life Became Great Business.
It is always fascinating to meet a legend, and I’ve been fortunate to have met more than a few in the wine business. Mr. Mondavi was gracious and welcoming, and, as always, opinionated. On this occasion he insisted that my companion (another wine writer) and I each order a bottle of Burgundy from the restaurant’s expansive (and expensive) wine list. “Order anything you like,” he said, “but make it good.”
There was an agenda of course, and as the two wines we had ordered turned up, it became quite clear. Joining them on the table was the 1996 Mondavi Reserve Pinot Noir. We spent a good part of the meal discussing, comparing and contrasting the three wines. The Burgundies were good, but I cannot recall their names or conjure up their flavors. The Mondavi I remember quite well, not only because it was sleek, subtle, sculpted and delicious, in an elegant, quasi-Euro style; but also because I immediately ordered half a case for my own cellar following lunch.
As the meal wore on, Mr. Mondavi became more and more animated, and with the energy of a much younger man (he would have been 85 at this time) he spoke about his history, his ups and downs in the wine business, and the wave of success he was riding at that moment. Sadly, that wave crested shortly after, and the empire that he and his family had so painstakingly built came crashing down.
But I am certain that, had he the time, Mr. Mondavi would have shrugged it off, learned from his mistakes, and begun again. His passion – and it was a genuine passion, a wellspring of creative energy and dedicated talent – was crafting beautiful wines, and evangelizing the wine-centric lifestyle, a mash-up of good wine, good food, good conversation, good friends, fine art, hard work, and above all, an appreciation for all the pleasures that ensued.
I received a review copy of the book that day, and asked Mr. Mondavi to sign it for me. Here is what he wrote: