
If you’ve been writing and reviewing wines as long as I have, certain personal prejudices (let’s be kind and call them conclusions) are inevitable. One such group I call the “underperforming categories.” These are certain classes of wines which by virtue of origin, grape and price may conveniently be seen as comparable. The underperformers are those groups in which a high percentage of the wines are simply overpriced.
Here are two examples. Along with my description of the group failings, I am happy to recommend a wine or two that overperform. The recommended wines are not just better than their sub-par peers; they are truly outstanding wines.
Group number one would be Italian pinot grigios. How many chain restaurants feature these wines on their lists, and how often do they charge a ridiculous amount of money for a small glass of some watery plonk? Even if you buy by the bottle, it’s tough to find anything above the swill level for under $18. Here are two inexpensive wines that rise well above the norm.